It has wonderful aromas of cherry, strawberry, blackberry, and dark chocolate, I wrote ten years ago about the 2015 Istrian, a Refošk wine from the Veralda winery in Istrian village of Brtonigla. I recommended this lively, full-bodied, and complex wine to accompany beefsteak, game, and even lamb. That year, it also won Decanter's highest honor. It was priced at 188 kuna, worth about 25 euros at the time, whereas before its inclusion in the Decanter Best in Show selection, price was 50 kunas, or less than seven euros.
Istrian beats wines twice its price
We proved that there are no gods in winemaking. We won the title with a young Istrian wine that had aged for only five months, said Luciano Visintin, owner of the Veralda winery. His 2015 Istrian first won a Decanter Platinum medal, scoring at least 95 out of 100 points, and was subsequently named the best single-varietal red wine priced above £15.
The variety is Refošk, which lacks tannins, so it does not require years of aging for them to soften, like Cabernet Sauvignon does, explained Luciano, who had previously referred to the variety as Teran on his website. Ten years ago, he could not obtain a permit to market the wine under that name because the Slovenians had secured protected status for the name Kras Teran (Karst Teran) for wines made from the Refošk grape.
Vintner was not allowed to call it Teran
We didn't want to stir up tension with the Slovenians. Besides, I think the name Istrian is excellent because it immediately points to the wine-growing region and its Istrian origins. We even entered it into a competition in the category of single-varietal red wines priced above £15. Once news of the major award broke, demand for Istrian surged, driving up the price. We still have about 10,000 bottles left, Visintin said at the time. And they sold them all, despite the price hike from the original 50 to 188 kunas. Meanwhile, the top Decanter award this year went to Plavac Plaža 2021, produced by Hvar winemaker Tonči Marijan.
This is only the second Croatian wine ever to make our Best In Show selection. The first, a Refošk, achieved this feat back in the 2016 competition. Since then, Croatian wine culture has made immense strides, progress likely unmatched by any other European wine-producing nation. So, it was a genuine pleasure for our judges to award the top honor this year to this exciting Plavac Mali from the Dalmatian island of Hvar, wrote the Decanter judges, adding:
Heroic Viticulture
Wines of this caliber typically originate from heroic viticulture, cultivated in extreme locations, often on steep limestone slopes facing the dazzling Adriatic Sea. So, if you are looking for fresh, low-alcohol reds, look elsewhere. However, if you love opulent, warm, and vibrant reds brimming with energy, this powerful and rich wine will delight you. It is characterized by dense notes of blackberry and black cherry, with nuances of fig, sage and wild thyme, balanced by exceptionally soft tannins, peppery depth and a persistent yet unobtrusive acidity. It is perfect for keeping us warm during the winter months.
That is how Decanter described the second Croatian wine to be included among the top 50, an elite group comprising just 0.3 percent of the 17,000 entries submitted for judging. More specifically, they noted that the wine offers enticing aromas of fig and raisin, while the palate is graced with notes of dark cherry, dried herbs, and a juicy, mineral freshness.
No need to fear alcohol
They want a wine that sweeps them off their feet. The Best in Show selection process no longer focuses on scores, but rather on what makes the wine unique, said Marijan, who also believes there is no need to shy away from alcohol. We don't make wines like everyone else. I’m stubborn and have no desire to pander to trends, especially not by lowering the alcohol content. We won with a wine that has 16% alcohol, something many find unimaginable, he added.
Despite the high alcohol content and sugar levels that many find incredible, Marijan has managed to preserve freshness and balance in the wine. It is a testament to the uniqueness of both the grape variety and the Hvar terroir. He notes that this recognition brought a flood of inquiries and a fantastic boost to business and global visibility, something that can never be taken away from their winery, his heart, his mind or his family.
Harmony is paramount in wine
As for pricing, the more mature Plavac Plaža 2016 sells for €69.48 on viola.hr, while JUG offers the 2019 vintage for €86.80. The price of the award-winning 2021 vintage is available upon request. They also offer Marijan’s white wine Grk–Prč (two indigenous Dalmatian varieties) 2024 for €30.55, while Regula Crno 2020, a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Plavac Mali, costs €44.60. Their most famous red wine, Vron Bod (2018), is priced at €140.10, with the 2019 vintage costing €20 more. Both Vron Bod vintages have an alcohol content of 16.6 percent. In Marijan’s wines, however, the alcohol percentage is not a particularly crucial detail. What matters more is their harmony.