wine and food

Where to go for the weekend? The Guardian recommends Žumberak, Plešivica and Samobor

Published: 18.09.2026

Pro Wine
Pro Wine
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A friend from Dubrovnik suggested that journalist Mary Novakovich, who has local roots or is married into a local family, try the Samobor's kremšnita (cream cake) at Kavana Livadić. While residents of Zagreb and other visitors love them, most locals would actually in Samobor choose the kremšnita from the U prolazu pastry shop, which is also located on the town's main King Tomislav Square. Her friend apparently didn't know about bermet, as she didn't recommend it. Mary did, however, take a liking to rudarska greblica. She even visited the Nikl Bakery in Rude to try it, and at the Griffin winery, run by Martina and Krešimir Ivančić, she tasted the Plešivica version of this traditional peasant dish, known there as copanjek. Here is a summary of her excursion recommendation, along with a few pro.wine additions, mostly wine-related

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She was in Samobor but didn't taste the bermet

While in Plešivica, she also visited the Korak winery and restaurant. It was an excellent choice, of course, for a Michelin-starred lunch and a tasting of truly outstanding wines. There is not a trace of Michelin-style stiffness or pretension here. It is a family-run operation—spanning the fourth and fifth generations—producing premium wines and preparing excellent food in a peaceful setting overlooking the vineyards, she wrote.

 

Three generations

Bernard is the head chef. He gained experience working with Massimo Bottura of the Italian restaurant Osteria Francescana and Ana Roš of Slovenia’s Hiša Franko. His sister Vera handles guest reception and service, while their parents, Velimir and Mirjana, tend to the vineyards. The grandparents are active too: they still make cheese and hams for the restaurant, she added. She did not mention Josip Korak, who is in charge of the wine. Perhaps he wasn't at home. 

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A summer gathering at Korak, in the shade and right next to the vineyard

Plešivica is part of the Žumberak-Samoborsko Gorje Nature Park. Mary visited the area from the direction of Krašić and noted that, on weekends, people from Zagreb come there to hike and cycle through hornbeam, oak, and beech forests, alongside the babbling Slapnica stream. She toured this slice of paradise by car, as she lacked the time for a walk or a bike ride.

 

Fine wines from Krašić and Pribić

She also missed tasting the local wines. The easiest way to reach this part of Žumberak, which offers tasting opportunities, is from Zagreb via Jastrebarsko. Just before entering Krašić lies the Barun winery, renowned for its still and sparkling wines made from the Manzoni grape variety. However, their standout offering is the Marquis Pinot Noir. The nearby village of Pribić is home to the Šimanović winery, which produces an excellent Frankovka.

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Krašić has Barun Marquis Pinot Noir
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Frankovka Šimanović is from Pribić